Halemaumau Pie

Having met my husband much later in our lives, I never got to meet my mother-in-law, but her presence lives large in this family. The stories of Rita paint a crystal-clear portrait of a woman whose capacity for sternness was met in equal portions by her capacity to make herself the butt of the joke, delight at her children’s teasing and humor, and instill deep values about family, love, and living life every moment in her kids and grandkids alike.

I hear echoes of Rita and Bill’s devotion to one another in the ritual glass of wine and reporting on our day that Hugh formalized during the pandemic, when checking in felt like a crucial lifeline even though neither of us had left the house for days on end. I see it in the bond between him and the three siblings he has in town who have a standing once-a-month happy hour & snack date that’s never once been less than four hours long. And I hear it in the way generational stories are told and re-told at every single family gathering — they ascribe it to being Irish and having storytelling in their blood, but what seems blatantly obvious to this latecomer is a joy and connection and love so deep and so vital that they all, whether intentional or instinctual, are doing their level best to never let it die.

The other character that figures prominently in the shared memories of this family is Hawaii. When Hugh was three-years-old, Bill accepted a role founding an office in Honolulu and moved the family for what would become a life-changing adventure for all of them. The exposure to so many different cultural backgrounds, foods they’d never heard of let alone tried, sunshine and year-round fresh air left an indelible mark.

So, when I decided I wanted to do something to honor Rita, two things came to mind: the chocolate cream pie she was well-known for, and Hawaii.

I’d made cookie crusts with shortbread and almonds a number of times, so in place of Rita’s graham cracker, I went with vanilla wafers, adding Macadamia nuts and sweetened flaked coconut. In this recipe, I opted to keep the crust more tender and not bake it, but if you prefer a bit more structure and crispness, feel free to give it 10 minutes in a 350° oven.

I knew I wanted to infuse the chocolate with a topical cocktail vibe, so rum was a given. Some additional coconut flavor also seemed right, but we don’t do a lot of coconut around here, so buying a bottle of extract to use only a teaspoon or two felt wasteful. My first thought was to use coconut cream, except the flavor is more subtle than I was going for. So, I tried also using coconut-flavored coffee creamer in place of milk. Oh, my, YES! When I gave Hugh a taste of the pudding, he looked at me, stunned, then said very seriously, “That’s incredible.” Win! (If you’re afraid it will be too much coconut for you and yours, feel free to replace half the creamer with whole milk and/or to replace the coconut cream with heavy whipping cream.)

Rita’s pie always included a whipped cream top, so that was a must. As a quiet tribute to my own mom, I chose to do something I rarely do — I used Cool-Whip! Piped with a simple star tip and sprinkled with toasted flakes of coconut, the pie was party-ready and elicited exactly the amount of reminiscing about childhood and Hawaii intended.

Enjoy!

 

*Halemaumau, btw, is the name of the street Hugh’s family lived on in Honolulu. It is named for the fiery pit in the Kilauea crater, considered the home of Pele, the goddess of fire and volcanoes. Ironically and sadly, unbeknownst to us, the night we were eating this pie was the night Maui was just erupting in the flames which would destroy over 2000 buildings and create billions of dollars in losses for the island and its people. If you are inclined to help, please consider donating to People’s Fund of Maui, which is giving directly to those who have lost their home to empower them to decide what recovery looks like for themselves, their families, and their community.


These are some of the items I find especially helpful for this bake. (These are affiliate links.)

Calphalon Nonstick 3-quart Saute Pan

U-Taste Heat Resistant Flexible Silicone Spatula

OXO Good Grips Silicone Balloon Whisk

Ghirardelli 100% Unsweetened Baking Cocoa


Halemaumau Pie

makes one 9” pie

CRUST INGREDIENTS

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Place the cookies and macadamia nuts in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, and pulse until broken into small chunks. Add the coconut, and process on low until it reaches a consistent, coarse-sand texture. Add the sugar and extracts, pulse until evenly distributed. Drizzle butter over the crumbs, and pulse until evenly moist and beginning to clump.

  2. Very lightly spray the pie pan with cooking spray. Press the crust into the pan and press into an even layer (I use the bottom of a measuring cup).

  3. The crust will set in the refrigerator and give you a soft, very crumbly and fresh flavor. Or you can bake at 350° for 10 minutes until dry, for a slightly crisper crust that holds together a little better. If you’re baking it, be sure to cool the crust completely before filling.

PIE INGREDIENTS

  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar

  • 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

  • 3 tablespoons cornstarch

  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

  • 4 large egg yolks, room temperature, lightly beaten

  • 2 cups coconut coffee creamer

  • 1 cup coconut cream (spoon the thickest cream off the top and top-up with heavy whipping cream, if needed)

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes

  • 2 teaspoons Madagascar Bourbon vanilla extract

  • 1 tablespoon rum or 1 teaspoon rum extract

  • Whipped cream and flaked coconut, toasted (I very much prefer Bob’s Red Mill for its larger, thinner flakes!)

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. In a medium saucepan, whisk the dry ingredients until thoroughly blended.

  2. Add the yolks and whisk until smooth.

  3. Whisking, add the coconut cream, followed by the milk, and whisk gently until incorporated.

  4. Heat slowly on a low flame, whisking gently and scraping occasionally with a rubber spatula. Once the mixture reaches a low boil, whisk steadily for 1 minute.

  5. Remove pan from the heat and whisk in the butter, followed by the vanilla and rum. Pour the mixture into the prepared crust, smooth the surface with the rubber spatula, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, and chill overnight.

  6. Gently toast 2-3 tablespoons of large-flaked, unsweetened coconut in a dry pan. When lightly golden, remove from the pan and set aside to cool.

  7. Top the cooled pie with whipped cream, sprinkle with the toasted coconut, and refrigerate uncovered for at least 1 hour prior to serving.



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